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Previous Section | Next Section | Return to Main Menu 7.0 Some Questions and Answers Q: Can I do this cheaply? A: No, relative to a similar size fish-only tank. (See cost estimate section)
Q: What are good test kits? A: Tetra Hardness
Iron: Cat No 22993-00, Model IR-21, $57.50, 100 test
Phosphate: Cat No 2248-00, Mdl PO-19, $54.50, 100 test
Silica: Cat No 22550-00, Model SI-7, $72.50, 100 test
Q: What about cheaper kits? A: Kordon Ammonia, Nitrite, low-end Nitrate not bad for gross measurement, Q: Which Salt Mix is best? A: Instant Ocean works for many. Reef Crystal has had reported problems. Tropic Marin recommended by some. Coralife dissolves fast, can sometimes be found cheap, but is suspected of having higher borate concentrations than natural seawater.
Q: How do I get rid of algae in my reef tank? A: There are three types of undesirable "algae" that commonly grow in reef tanks: long green strands of hair algae, short fuzzy green turf algae, and brown or red slime algae. Some people also consider fleshy macro alga, such as Caulerpa, to be a pest as they can overgrow and "Slime" alga is actually cyanobacteria, not an alga. While its growth is often taken as a sign of poor water quality, its occurrence is part of the normal succession of a developing aquarium. It is uncommon for it not to occur at some point. With patience it will go away all on its own, but there are some things you can do to expedite the situation and help prevent it from recurring: Chevron and Mimic tangs are known for having an appetite for cyanobacteria, as are baby queen conch and some hermit crabs. Adding such creatures should help a lot. So will inoculating the tank with some substrate from an established tank that is slime algae free. Apparently such tanks harbor microfauna that consume or otherwise compete with the cyanobacteria. By inoculating a tank experiencing the problem with a small handful of substrate (a few tablespoons full will do) from an established tank without the problem, chances are good that you will get a starter colony of the desired microfauna. Use of activated carbon, strong protein skimming, active mechanical removal, strong water currents, and use of kalkwasser, will also help control its growth. As with most things associated with reef tanks, don't expect overnight results. We STRONGLY recommend AGAINST the use of ANY antibiotics, such as Maracyn, in reef tanks. As a reef aquarist, you spend a lot of effort and resources to build the bio-diversity of your tank up. Use of antibiotics is in direct conflict with that goal. At best, it's a temporary setback for the cynanobacteria, which, like most bacteria, will eventually build up a resistance to the antibiotic. The best way to deal with hair and turf algae is not to let it grow to begin with. Keep the tank dark while it is initially cycling. Keep nitrates and phosphates as low as possible, and siphon out detritus. Keep herbivores in the tank. Snails (as many as 1 for every 2-3 gallons) will eat turf algae, and hair algae before it gets long. Tangs (especially Chevron, Mimic, and Yellow) and many small blennies will eat many forms of algae. If the tank does become overgrown, pull as much as possible out by hand. Reduce the light cycle, or if there is nothing light sensitive in the tank, leave it in darkness for a couple of weeks. Get more herbivores. Be sure to siphon out their droppings, which if left in the tank make great algae fertilizer. I have found that urchins can help recover an overgrown tank, although they will knock things over and eat any kind of algae, including desirable calcareous algaes. Large numbers of small hermit crabs (on the order of 1 per gallon) are very effective at removing and maintaining hair-algae free live rock - but do little for sidewalls and glass. As usual, a large bio-diversity with a mix of snails, tangs, crabs, and other herbivores will do the best job. Two relatively new concepts are currently getting some attention in regards to hair algae control:
Some are beginning to believe that the small Copepods and other "meiograzers" have a substantial impact on the quantity of visible hair algae. The belief is that the hair algae is always there, it's simply mowed down by the meiograzers to the point where it's not typically visible. If this is true, then inclusion of some fish, like mandarins (which feed heavily on this size prey) would be inappropriate for reef tanks. As mentioned in the Live Rock section of this FAQ, the patience to allow a tank to cycle for 3-12 months prior to the addition of most fish (and any non-herbivore fish) may improve the stability of the tank in regards to hair algae. Although hair algae will normally bloom during this period, a compensating population of micrograzers will also bloom. Once the two come into balance, the normal routine of slowly adding additional life forms can commence. Q: How do I treat a fish with ich in a reef tank?
The first places to look are:
Some fish that are cyanide-compromised may be too weak and internally damaged that there is little that can be done to help them. The use of a quarantine tank is probably the best solution. A small 10 gallon tank with a heater, air-stone, and some live rock for filtration should suffice. If treatment of a new fish is required, it shouldbe moved to a similar, but live-rockless, hospital tank where medication can be administered. When doing a water change from your main tank, consider using any clean collected water as source water for your quarantine and hospital tanks. This will help acclimate your new purchases to the water parameters associated with their future home. |
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